Of course this is always true for any Heating and Cooling. Quick heating of any alloy or metal causes small stress fractures within the molecular structure of the material. Also, the compressor and exhaust fans are better off slowly heating up rather than quickly heating up. The reason being is that cold oil does not flow through the turbo like hot oil. My personal opinion on any turbo car is to warm it up. What is the "correct" way to start and drive the 1.8t? I did this before I purchased a manual, recently i've been doing a bit of both. It has a higher tick-over for a couple of minutes and I thus let it idle until the revs drop and stay consistent before moving. When starting the car, the manual says to drive straight away, I was always under the impression it's good to warm it up slighty before any driving. It's more likely just degradation of the seal due to old age. I doubt the slightly smaller gap between the exhaust and heat shield would have affected the diff seals. You will need to access several from underneath. If you have a 2002 model you will not have connection 5. Scroll down a little bit and there's a quick walkthrough on TIP removal: Clicky Click ()Īlso, here's a pic from Old Guy's turbo install ():įrom 1 to 5: DV, N80 Evap, N75, PRV, SJP. Pro tip: I used a 1/4" ratchet and long extension with a socket to tighten the hose clamp on the turbo inlet. Yep, the smaller end goes over the turbo and the larger end goes on the airbox. With the front clip off, it should be really easy. So one end goes over turbo and the other end into the air box? The whole front clip is off the car so I'm good there. Not the most in depth but I'll see what I can do. I'm not trying to sound harsh, I'm just trying to inform you of what is likely the best for you and your car. Now if this guy has a base file already for the 3.0, which I doubt, then maybe you'd see some improvements. Assuming $100/hr, you'll barely have time to pull the tune from the ECU and even begin to analyze the maps (analyze, not alter) before you reach the $500 price point of the JHM tune. It takes hours to manipulate a tune file and to perform pulls in order to have the data justified to make the changes. If this guy is able to squeeze some more power out, awesome(unlikely), but I truly think you'll be better off with the JHM tune. Not to mention the altitude that's working against you. I don't want to burst your bubble, but the NA 3.0 is not going to see a >10% increase in bhp from a tune alone, especially from someone who hasn't dealt with this motor before. I'll post the dyno chart differences, but its going to take me a almost a month to get in I'm in Denver, and we got a shop that all my friends go to and I talked to him and said he could definetly pull more than 20hp. Sorry for the questions I never refilled my entire system, trying to make sure I purchase enough. Saves on shipping and I'll just have to mix myself. I would only need a gallon of pure antifreeze and a gallon of distilled water to mix, correct? The dealer seems to be priced reasonable on the gallon of pure g12 so I was going to go today. Which means that you have to totally evacuate and dry out your entire cooling system before adding the Evans stuff. The downside is that it is very expensive and totally incompatible with "standard" coolants. The plus side is that it doesn't contain any water so it doesn't expand with temperature and the cooling system pressure remains neutral and constant. Is this what I need?Īll of the G12 and G13 series are compatible with each other. What is the difference between G12, G12 ++ and G13? I have an 02 3.0L Thank you just wanted to make sure, thats what I thought.
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